Secure Shakey Rail Without Drilling Into Floor

Your mortar nails should go through the wood entirely and penetrate the concrete by 3 4 inch 1 9 cm if possible.

Secure shakey rail without drilling into floor.

If you can find nails that will penetrate the concrete deeper than 3 4 inch 1 9 cm this can create an even more secure hold. First the treads or shoe plate on a knee wall or floor level are installed as well as the newel posts. Round hole with base shoe by far the fastest and easiest method. Slide a sonotube in to form it up.

Drill or dig the holes tamp some gravel into the bottom. Use lag bolts or screws to attach the metal post bracket to the concrete. Then the handrail is fitted and temporarily attached to the posts or walls. Insert lead shields into the holes in the concrete.

Place your handrail over this pipe and secure in place with a quick weld or with a screw going through both pipes. Drive a lenght of pipe through the hole and into the ground the concrete will now only secure the pipe against sideway movements while the support is given from the ground. Drill holes into the concrete that are the right diameter for lead shields using a masonry bit in a hammer drill. This is usually a much easier job than driving nails by hand.

Insert the wood post in the post bracket and screw or nail it in place. To install them position the wood part in place. They provide a strong and fast way to attach to concrete but you. The following visual guide showcases 6 different methods of installing square balusters with and without shoes.

Align and level the brackets and you re all set to secure your shed. This requires drilling a round hole and using a shoe to hide the left over gaps. Select nails that will penetrate at least 3 4 inch 1 9 cm into the concrete. Set a galvanized anchor bracket in before the concrete sets.

I d scrape paint from the base to see what s under there a close look seems to reveal that it may be in pieces that are either screwed together or snapped in the base appears to be cast iron so welding to it may be difficult the holes in the floor appear to be nail holes and not termites in my opinion as a last resort i would cut the base from the floor disconnect it from the wall and get it. Level it to the needed height and fill it with concrete. There are other methods you can use too. Here you actually screw or rail bolt the rail in place without glue so that it can be removed in a later step.

Drill a clearance hole through the wood and into the concrete using a masonry drill. Typically a package of these screws comes with a masonry drill bit sized to the screw diameter. If it is a long run especially on a stairway you will want to brace up the middle maybe even several places to ensure that it doesn t sag and runs straight.